T S 



A 



COnON CARDING 



BT 



J. J. O'GHABY 



Wooiasocfe«tf R. I. 



Price, $1.25 



Pnblaahed by 

ROBinSON PRESS 




Class 
Book 



Sf^ '18 



e^ 



Gopiglit}!" 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



COnON CARDING 

BY 

J. J. O'GRADY 

Overseer of Carding 

MANVILLE COMPANY 

Social and Nourse Mills 

WOONSOCKET, R. I. 



PRICE $1.25 



.04 




1^ 



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5S5i 



4CI.AaiG990 



PREFACE. 

In Wiriting this book, which the author now 
submits for the berefit of his fellow overseers, 
and the assistr.nce of those who have the ambi- 
tion to become overseers, the author was actuat- 
ed by the desire to have at hand a reference 
book containing as nearly as possible all the 
necessary information and data concerning the 
process of cotton carding, instead of having 
several books and papers which are almost 
always mislaid at the time they are needed. He 
feels confident that he has attained what he 
sought to accomplish, and as no one loses any- 
thing by extending a helping hand to others who 
may be less fortunate or who may need assist- 
ance, he places this book within reach of all who 
may desire a copy. 

It ought to be a very handy reference book 
for overseers and superintendents. 



CONTENTS 

Preface ..... Page 5 
Cotton Carding ." . . . 7 

Picker Room . . . . .14 

Calculations on Machines . . 16 

Cards 20 

Doffer Speed Constant . . 26 

The Sliver Lap Machine . . 30 

Combing ...... 33 

Finisher Drawing . . . .46 

Drawing Frames .... 49 

Speed Frames . .... 56 

Twist in Roving .... 62 

Roll Setting on Speed Frames . . 64 

Constant Numbers . . . 75 

Square Root 77 

Weight of Lap and Drafts . 82 

Points to look after in the Carding Dept. 83 
Advantages of Textile School . . 96 

Qualifications for a Good Overseer . 98 
Instructions for Grinders . . 100 

Instructions for Strippers . .102 

Instructions for Speeder Tenders . 103 



COTTON CARDING. 

The first thing to be considered in the 
process of Carding is the mixing of the 
cotton, which is necessary on account of 
the density of the bale in which the cotton 
fibers are compressed and matted together ; 
these bales are opened and in most mills 
are spread about in the mixing bins by 
hand. As the fibers in the dififerent lots of 
cotton may vary from one-sixteenth to one- 
eighth of an inch in length, they should be 
opened alternately and mixed together thor- 
oughly, because by this method you will 
obtain a fair average staple, resulting in 
less waste, as the longer staples will help 
to carry along and support those which are 
shorter and are yet considered long enough 
for the w^ork for which they are intended. 

The mixed cotton pile should remain 
unused a length of time sufficient for the 
air to circulate thoroughly through the cot- 
ton, thereby rendering it flufify and dry 
enough for the first process to which it is 
to be subjected. 

This first process is known as the hopper 
feeder or automatic opener. This machine 



8 

consists of a large box, inside of which is 
a travelling latticed spiked apron. This 
spiked apron carries the cotton upward on 
its surface until at the top the large bunches 
of cotton, which have attached themselves 
to the spikes, are knocked back by the re- 
volving spiked roll, which is turning near 
the uppermost end of the spiked apron and 
is set at a certain distance from this apron. 
This setting governs the weight of cotton 
that can continually pass this point. 

The cotton now slides down an inclined 
board and falls upon a small apron which 
feeds the cotton through two steel rolls 
known as feed rolls, from which it is struck 
by the blades of the revolving beater, which 
renders the cotton fluffy, and this same 
action causes the heavier impurities to fall 
between the grid bars, which at intervals 
retard the passage of the cotton. It is 
during these slight intervals that the drop- 
pings leave the cotton. 

The cotton is now drawn upward through 
a trunk by air suction furnished by a re- 
volving fan in the breaker picker. This air 
current, passing through the perforated 



surfaces of two cylinders or cages, which 
extend the full width of the machine, one 
revolving above the other, causes the cotton 
to lay upon the surfaces of these two cages, 
and, passing between them, is formed into 
an endless sheet that then passes through 
the feed rolls, from which the cotton is 
struck off by the blades of the beater, which 
opens the cotton and, with the aid of the 
grid bars, causes the impurities to leave 
the stock. The cotton now passes between 
two more cages, and being compressed 
again into an endless sheet passes between 
four heavy calender rolls and is then wound 
upon the surface of a small iron roll. The 
mass of cotton wound upon this roll is 
known as a lap. 

Four or five of these laps are placed 
upon a revolving apron at the back of the 
intermediate or finisher picker, according 
to the processes of picking desired, and 
undergoing a repetition of the former 
processes is again formed into a lap. There 
is an evening motion on these machines 
which makes it possible to obtain a lap 
which will weigh approximately the same 
number of ounces to the yard. 



The doubling of the laps at the back 
helps to obtain this result. The laps from 
the breaker vary more or less, and, in 
doubling, the thick places in one lap are 
more apt to make up for the thin places 
in another, and the evening motion, which 
controls the speed of the feed rolls, speed- 
ing them or causing^ them to run slow, as is 
demanded by the variable thickness that 
may occur in the laps that are being fed 
into the machine, assures the delivering of 
a lap of an even number of ounces to the 
yard. 

The obtaining of an even lap is very 
important, as the card reproduces in the 
sliver the same conditions that are in the 
lap. Thick and thin places in the lap wnll 
result in thick and thin places in the carded 
sliver ; also a lap, each yard of which is 
even in weight, will produce an even card 
sliver. 

Having now obtained the cotton in the 
form of a lap, which facilitates the handling 
of the cotton, together with having it weigh, 
yard by yard, an equal number of ounces, 
we proceed to the Card. 



The revolving flat card is, in regards to 
the making of good yarn, the most impor- 
tant machine in the mill 

The object of the cotton card is to dis- 
entangle and separate, as it were, the fibers 
of the cotton ; to remove seed, leaf, neps, 
and a certain percentage of short stock, and 
to deliver the good or desired portion of 
stock over the surface of the doffer. At 
this point a comb strikes the cotton off in 
a web-like way, which is drawn through a 
trumpet by two calender rolls and thence 
into a can, which revolves underneath a 
coiler head, which contains two more 
smaller calender rolls. 

The revolving flat card consists for the 
main part of lap roll, feed roll and feed 
plate, licker-in, cylinder, top-flats, doflfer. 
The setting of the last five are very impor- 
tant and should be done by a skillful, ex- 
perienced, and trustworthy man. Money 
should be no object in getting a man of this 
kind.* as poor yarn and cloth is made by 
careless setting. 

After carding comes the sliver lap ma- 
chine. The cotton is delivered by the card 



into a can in a long, endless strand, and is 
called sliver. 

Eighteen or twenty of these cans are 
placed back of the machine and the slivers 
from them are run side by side until the 
desired width of lap is obtained, and passes' 
between three or four sets of rolls, which 
draw the stock, then passes between two 
pairs of heavy calender rolls, which com- 
press the cotton, and is then wound upon 
a spool until the desired diameter is ob- 
tained. 

When this diameter is reached a stop- 
motion, either mechanical or electrical, 
causes the frame to stop. In this way a 
uniform length of lap is obtained. 

These laps are placed at the back of the 
ribbon lap machine, and after undergoing 
a similar process to the sliver lap machine, 
the lap produced is placed at the back of 
the comber, and having been acted upon 
by the different parts of the comber the 
cotton passes through the drawbox* and 
coiler into a can and is ready to be placed 
at the back of draw frame. 

The drawing frame is used to increase 



the doublings, but especially to attenuate 
and parallelize the fibers and reduce the 
weight of the sliver to that which is de- 
sired for the slubber. 

The slubber, or rather, any speed frame, 
is a machine which takes a strand of cot- 
ton, draws it, puts in twist, and winds it in 
layers upon the surface of a wooden bob- 
bin. 

After the slubber come the First Inter- 
mediate, Second Intermediate, and Fly 
Frame or Jack. 

After passing through the Fly Frame or 
Jack Frame the process of Carding is com- 
pleted, and the roving is passed along to 
the Spinning Department. 



PICKER ROOM. 

The picker room should have a mixing 
room large enough so that a pile of cotton 
sufficient for a week's run could be mixed 
at one time. There should also be a large 
bin constructed in this mixing room, in 
which all waste, that is supposed to be put 
back into the work, could be kept from one 
mixing day to another. This waste con- 
sists mostly of sliver from cards and draw- 
ing frame and slubber, the ends of laps 
that are broken out by strippers when they 
are putting in laps and roving waste. This 
roving waste should be spread on one of 
the picker aprons and allowed to pass 
through the picker, then throw it into the 
waste bin until the day you mix the cotton. 

In making a mix it is advisable to use 
as many different lots of cotton as is pos- 
sible. As the staple and grade of the dif- 
ferent lots vary somewhat, it is better to 
have some of each kind, in each mix than 
to have a great many bales of one kind in 
any individual mix, as in this way the pile 
will always contain a uniform mixture in 
regards to staple and grade, which insures 



15 

uniformity in the numbers and even looking 
yarn. 

First place bales around the space where 
the pile is to be erected, and have help 
understand that you wish them to take off 
thin layers of cotton at a time, and have 
the cotton spread about over the full sur- 
face of the mixing space, scattering each 
bale as much as possible. , After obtaining 
a thickness of cotton that seems a fair pro- 
portion of the entire mixing, have the 
employees take a quantity of the waste that 
has been stored in the bin and spread this 
over the cotton, covering it in good shape, 
and continue in this manner, having a layer 
of cotton and a layer of waste, until the 
desired mixing is completed. Then have the 
man who fills the boxes take the cotton 
from top to bottom of the pile, and in this 
way the best results will be obtained, as 
both cotton and waste will be run in pro- 
portion. 



CALCULATIONS ON MACHINES. 

Production of Picker is found by taking 
the speed of fluted Calender roll and also 
the diameter of the same. Then tlie pro- 
duction equals the circumference of calen- 
der, times the revolutions per minute of 
calender roll, times total minutes run, times 
weight of one yard of lap, and divide this 
product by thirty-six inches in one yard 
and sixteen ounces in one pound, the result 
will be the production of the machine. 

Example : — Calender^g" in diameter. 

R. P. M.=9. 

Weight I yard=:i4 ozs. 

Time run^5o hours. 

What is production? 

9X3 -1416X 9X 60X50X14 
36X16 
= 18,555 lbs. 

To find what draft of picker is when you 
know the weight per yard and number of 
laps fed in and also the weight per yard 
delivered. Multiply the number of laps fed 
in by the weight of one lap and divide by 
the weight per yard delivered. Thus: — If 
we feed four laps each thirteen ounces to 



17 



the yard and produce a lap that weighs 
twelve ounces to the yard, what is the 
draft? 

4X13 
12 
^4 i/3^the draft of picker. 

To find the weight of lap that will be 
produced when you know the number of 
laps and weight per yard fed in and also 
the draft of picker, multiply the weight per 
yard fed in by the number of laps fed and 
divide by the draft, thus: — If we feed four 
laps each twelve ounces to the yard and 
draft of the picker is four and one-half, 
what weight per yard will be produced ? 

4X12 

= 102/3 ounces to the yard. 

The weight per yard delivered multiplied 
by draft of picker and divided by number 
of laps fed will give the weight per yard 
you should feed in. 

Weight per yard delivered^ 11 ozs, 

Draft=4. Number of laps fed in=5. 

1 1X4 

5 
=8 4/5 ozs. to the yard. 



The production constant of a picker 
equals the circumference of the fluted 
calender roll times total minutes run di- 
vided by thirty-six inches in one yard and 
sixteen ounces in one pound. 

Example: — If calender roll is 9" in 
diameter and time run is 50 hours, what 
is the production constant? 

9X3-1416X60X50 
36X16 
^i47.26==Production constant. 

The Production Constant times the revo- 
lutions per minute of calender roll, times 
ounces to the yard equals the pounds pro- 
duced. 

Example : — Production constant^ 147.26. 

R. P. M. of calender roll=9. 

Weight per yard^i4 ounces. 

How many pounds produced? 

9X147.26X14=18554.76 lbs. produced. 

The pounds required divided by the pro- 
duction constant times the weight per yard 
will give the required speed of calender roll 
per minute to produce this number of 
pounds. 



Pounds required=i2,ooo lbs. 

Production constant^ 147.26. 

Weight per yard=8 ounces. 

What is required speed of 
minute ? 
12,000 

147.26X8 
= 10.18 R. P. M. 



iOll 



per 



20 

CARDS. 

The draft and production of cards vary 
according to conditions and the number of 
these machines that a person has in his 
room and from which he has to obtain suf- 
ficient sliver to meet the desired require- 
ments. 

If there are sufficient number of cards a 
good draft would run from 90 to 115 with 
the following settings : 

Doffer to cylinder^Tight .007. Loose 
.005. 

Cylinder and licker-in:=.007. 

Licker-in and feed plate:=.oo7 (up to 
lYs" staple). 

Top flats=.oo9 (if great vibration), .007 
if not. 

Back plate=.oi2. 

Front plate=.oi7. 

Strip plate=.oio. 

Good results should be obtained if sliver 
is not over sixty grains per yard. The 
lighter the lap and sliver the better work 
will be produced by the card. Cards should 
be kept as clean and well oiled as possible. 



21 

Have a time set for stripping, oiling, and 
sweeping out, and have those duties at- 
tended to at that time. 

For first-class results a card should not 
deliver more than 400 pounds per week. 
Run doffer 9 or 10 R. P. M. 

To change production of card without 
changing the hank sliver, change the bar- 
row gear. 

Calculations for Cakds. 

If you wish to increase or decrease the 
production of a card without changing the 
hank sliver, change the barrow gear. This 
change does not change the hank sliver be- 
cause this barrow gear controls the speed 
of the doffer, which delivers the stock, and 
also the speed of the feed rolls, which 
feed the stock into the card ; so when you 
change the barrow gear you either speed or 
slow down these two parts of the cards in 
proportion. 

If a card delivers 400 pounds per week 
and you desire 500 pounds per week, and 
you have a 16 tooth barrow gear giving 400 
pounds, what gear will give 500 pounds? 
Multiply the present gear by the desired 



production and divide the product by the 
present production ; therefore 
16X500 
400 
will give a 20 tooth barrow gear. 

The draft of a card may be ascertained 
in two ways, namely : — By using the gears 
and diameters of feed and calender rolls 
or by weighing one yard fed into card and 
one yard of sliver that is delivered 

Draft of Card. 

If you are using a 12 ounce lap and the 
card sliver delivered weighs 48 grains per 
yard, what is the draft? 

12 ounces =i2X437/^ gi'S-=5250 grs. 

Allow 5% of this for waste=262.5 
grains. 

5250 — 262.5=4987.5 grains fed in 
4987.5-^48=103.9, the draft of the card. 

Draft of card using gears and rolls. 

Draft between lap roll and feed roll. 

Diameter of lap roll =6". 

Diameter of feed roll=2>^". 

Gear on feed roll=2i teeth. 

Gear on lap roll=:59 teeth. 



I 



Then, 

59X9X1 
= 1.05. 

21X4X6 
Draft of doffer and calender roll. 
Diameter of doffer=24^". 
Diameter of calender roll =4". 
Gear on doffer^. 208. 
Gear on calender roll=28. 
Then, 

208X 4 
28X24.75 
= 1.2. 

Draft between feed roll and dofifer. 
Diameter of feed roll=2^". 
Diameter of doffer=:24^:I". 
Gear on dofifer=i26 teeth. 
Driving side shaft gear=32 teeth. 
Change bevel gear on shaft=2i teeth. 
Driven feed roll gear=i54 teeth. 
Then, 

26X4X3^X154 
9X24.75X21 
= 109.5. 

Total draft of card=i09.5X 1.2X1.05= 
I37-97- 



24 

To find the draft of a card. 

Rule : — The diameter of calender roll 
and all drivers multiplied by each other and 
the result divided by diameter of feed rolls 
and all driven gears wil give the draft. 

To find the weight on feed roll or any 
roll : 

Measure the number of inches from ful- 
crum to the center of the weight, multiply 
this number of inches by the number of 
pounds in the weight and divide the prod- 
uct by the number of inches from fulcrum 
to point of contact. 

To find the inches per minute that the 
top flats travel : 

Cylinder makes 155 R. P. M. 

End of cylinder shaft has 7" pulley. 

This drives 9" pulley on stud. 

Other end of stud holds single worm. 

This single worm drives 26 tooth gear. 

This 26 tooth gear is on stud, on the 
other end of which is another single worm. 

This single worm drives a 40 tooth gear. 
On the same stud as this 40 tooth gear is 
what is known as the flat wheel. 



25 

This flat wheel is 8" in diameter. 
Thus : 

155X7X1X1X8X22 

9X26X40X7 
=2.91" 
that the top flats travel per minute. 

To find production of a card : 

The production of a card=the circum- 
ference of the doffer, times the revolutions 
per minute, times the total minutes run, 
times the weight of one yard of sliver 
divided by 36 inches in one yard and 7000 
grains in one pound. 

Example : — Diameter of doffer=27". 

Revolutions per minute=io. 

Time run =50 hours. 

Weight of one yard=40 grains. 

27X3-I4I6X 10X60X50X40 

36X7000 
=403.92 lbs. 



DOFFER SPEED CONSTANT. 

The doffer speed constant is found by 
multiplying the revolutions of the cylinder, 
times the diameter of pulley on cylinder 
shaft that drives pulley on the licker-in, 
times diameter of pulley on opposite end of 
licker-in that drives pulley on same stud as 
barrow gear, times i for barrow gear, and 
dividing by pulley on licker-in that pulley 
on cylinder drives, times diameter of pulley 
on stud with barrow gear, times number of 
teeth in dolter gear. 

Example: — R. P. M. of cylinder=i65. 
Pulley on cylinder shaft=i8" diameter. 
This drives licker-in pulley 8". 
Pulley on other end of licker-in=4^" 
diameter. 

This drives pulley on stud with barrow 
gear 151^". 

Barrow gear=i tooth. 
Doffer gear=i92 teeth. 
What is the doffer speed constant? 
165X18X4 -25X1 
8X15-5X192 
= •53- 



27 

The revolutions per minute that you de- 
sire the doffer to make divided by the doffer 
speed co-istant will give the required barrow 
gear. 

If you vvHsh the doffer to make 9 revolu- 
tions per minute and doffer speed constant 
— .53, what is the required barrow gear? 

9-^. 53= 16.98 or 17 teeth=:required 
gear. 

The speed constant of doft"er multiplied 
by number of teeth in barrow gear will 
give revolutions per minute of doffer. 

If speed constant = .713 and there are 
15 teeth in barrow gear, how many revolu- 
tions per minute will doffer make? 

i5X.7i3=io.695 R. P. M. 

To find the number of inches of lap 
fed in per minute, multiply R. P. M. of 
doffer times bevel gear on end of doffer, 
times change gear, times circumference of 
feed roll, and divide by bevel gear that 
drives bevel gear on doffer times large plate 
bevel gear on end of feed roll. 

R. P. M. of doffer=9. 

Bevel gear on end of doffer=32. 

Bevel gear on end of side shaft=32. 



28 

Bevel change gear=2i. 

Bevel plate gear on end of feed roll^= 

120. 

Diameter of feed roll=234". 
9X32X21X9X3-1416 
32X120X4 
= 11.13 iiiches per minute. 

Cards should be clothed with the best 
clothing obtainable, as the best is none too 
good. They should be ground by an ex- 
perienced, skillful, and trustworthy man. 

Cards should be ground light, as the 
lighter they are ground the shorter will 
be the nose of the wire and the longer will 
it keep its edge and produce better work. 

Top setting is the most important part 
of setting a card, because the tops straight- 
en out the fibers while they are passing 
between the tops and the cylinder and catch 
seed, leaf, and neps which they deposit on 
the outside as waste. 

The doffer should be set as close as pos- 
sible to the cylinder without rubbing. 
Licker-in should be set the same as tops. 
Feed rolls should be set according to the 
staple you are running; if they are set too 



29 

close to the licker-in, the staple will be 
cut, and if set too far away the work will 
be cloudy. 

The slower the doffer is run the better 
will be the work produced. 

Care should be taken not to crowd the 
cards with a heavy lap. The lighter the 
lap the better the work. It is better to 
run light laps, as when the lap is heavy 
the wire will not handle the thickness in 
bulk, and the result is uneven, cloudy, 
knitty, rough, and unfinished work. 



^ 



30 

THE SLIVER LAP MACHINE. 

After the sliver has been deposited in 
the card cans, these cans to the number of 
1 8 or 20 are placed at the back of a machine 
known as the sliver lap machine. The 
sliver is drawn side by side over a table 
until the width desired for the lap is ob- 
tained, and passes through three sets of 
rolls, which draw the stock, and then passes 
between two pairs of heavy calender rolls, 
which compress the cotton, and delivers 
it in a continuous sheet that is wound upon 
the surface of a wooden spool until the 
desired diameter of lap is obtained. In 
some mills these laps are placed on the back 
of the comber. In others four of these 
laps are placed on the lap rolls at the back 
of a machine known as the ribbon lap 
machine, which acts upon these laps in the 
same manner as the sliver lap machine ; 
that is, it draws the stock and places it on 
another spool which goes to the comber. 
The dr^ft of these machines is about 2 
and 4, respectively. 

In making a combed yarn the processes 
before the comber should be run as light 



as conditions will permit, especially the 
carding process, as the lighter the lap the 
better the carding, and the imperfections 
that the card removes from the stock will 
not have to be taken out at the comber. 

The ribbon laps to the number of 8 
are placed upon the lap rolls of the comber 
and wind off over the surface of a curved 
steel plate and enters the machine through 
the feed rolls, and is then held by the nip- 
pers while the needles of the half lap pass 
through the cotton and take out whatever 
imperfections the card may have let pass. 
After the needles of the half lap pass 
through the stock, the segment with the 
aid of the leather covered detaching roll 
draws the stock through the needles of the 
top comb and delivers it into a pan, from 
which it is drawn by calender rolls, and 
passes through a draw-box consisting of 
four pairs of rolls, and then through a 
coiler head into a can that is then sent to 
draw^ frames. 

The process of combing is used to re- 
move imperfections, such as seed, leaf, 
neps, and also a certain percentage of short 



32 

staple, thereby producing a sliver composed 
of fibers of almost uniform length, which 
means a stronger yarn. 

Combing is a very uneven process, and 
it takes a good many doublings after comb- 
ing to make an even yarn. 

Combers S'hould be set carefully to suit 
the length of staple, and the waste problem 
governs the setting somewhat according to 
the percentage desired. 

The nippers should be set close to the 
half lap, as the closer the nippers are set 
the more deeply will the needles of the 
half lap enter into the cotton, and as a 
result the combing will be more thorough 
and more waste will be removed. 

The waste is removed from the needles 
of the half lap by a revolving brush that 
in turn deposits the w^aste upon the doffer, 
from which a comb causes the waste to be 
deposited in a can for the xirpose at the 
back of the comber. 



33 

COMBING. 

Combing is a process by which fine 
yarns are made from long staple cotton. 
This is the highest type of finished carding. 
Imperfections which the card may let pass 
are only taken, out by this process. It takes 
out all the short or uneven staple and only 
the required staple is allowed to pass into 
finished product. The process of combing 
is very costly. Carefulness and good judg- 
ment, together with a tljorcugh knowledge 
of the machine, is necessary for good comb- 
ing. Have machine clean, ciled, and free 
in all parts, nuts and belts in good order, 
needles in cylinder and top combs in per- 
fect condition and of uniform height. 
Cushions covered with fine quality of sheep 
skin of uniform thickness and not hard nor 
creased, the woolen cloth of standard 
weight, 10 ounces, and all wool, as these 
cushions are an important part of a comber. 
In setting a comber begin with the index 
gear, which has 80 teeth and is numbered 
up to 20 on its side, with 4 teeth between 
each number. Why? Because it is a guide 
for all the settings as given by rule. Next 



is the segment, which is the creased or 
flute part of cyHnder, and should be set 
on a hne to deliver roll with lys inch stock 
gauge at 5 index. Why? Because this 
segment is the important part on which 
most of the combing is done by top combs 
and detaching rolls ; it also assists in deliv- 
ering stock through the machine. Next 
are the cushions and nippers, connect rods, 
put on rocker springs, have caps and bolts 
screwed down in place, turn comber round 
by hand till nippers close and pushed back 
to farthest point. Set nippers and cushions 
to cylinder needles with a 21 gauge to the 
highest needles. This is done by turning 
cylinder round 2 needle bars at a time 
and goins: between nippers and needles each 
time. The nippers must run as close as a 
21 gauge. Why? As cotton is held by 
nipper and cushions drawn back on the 
cylinder to loosen and take out seed, etc., 
it is necessary to set to a 21 gauge, as 
cylinder needles are passing through the 
cotton, and the closer the nippers are set 
to cylinder the deeper the cotton will pass 
into cylinder needles and more foreign 
matter will be removed. Set cushion plates 



35 

to suit the stock being combed. The cush- 
ion plate gauge runs from 1% inch to 
I 7-16 inch. Set index wheel at 5. Have 
nippers on line with edge of segment, then 
set cushion to delivery roll so as to feel 
both easv with ij4 inch gauge. Open nip- 
pers and swing cushion plate forward to 
full extent, where they are to be when 
machine is ready to deliver through top 
comb. The adjusting is done by screws on 
the back of rocker arm. When this is set, 
turn index wheel to close nippers. When 
these are down and back, which is at 12 
index, then with the step gauge set hunter 
screws in rocker arms to hunter block 
with first step of the hunter gauge. Re- 
member, the wider the step gauge used the 
more swing to the cushion plates and more 
waste removed from cotton. If nippers 
are swung back too far under back roll, 
there will not be space enough for lap to 
feed through. The nippers should just 
pass by the edge of the cushion plate, not 
close enough to rub the leather, but to nip 
paper. In setting cushion to nippers, take 
the rocker out, set cushion to nippers by a 
slip of paper, adjusting them from the 



back by the small screws. When the nip- 
pers will nip this paper between front edge 
of cushions and the outside lip of nippers 
all the way across they are right. Put 
rocker cushions and nippers back in ma- 
chine. Take care not to disturb screws 
after setting them right once, then set lap 
feed roll i 13-16 inches from delivery roll, 
this for lYi to i^ inch stock. The detach- 
ing roll is a very important part of a 
comber. Why? Because it delivers the 
sliver with the assistance of delivery roll 
and segment. This roll must be very true 
and all of the same diameters. Seven- 
eighths inch is standard size ; as they are 
moved forward and back by a comb all 
must strike the segment at the same time, 
not too hard, not too soon. If they get on 
too soon the stock will curl ; if too hard it 
will spoil the rolls. 

To set detaching roll, turn index to 6')4i 
then loosen cam and turn until detach- 
ing roll is clear down on segment, ready 
to move up or forward ; then take a thin 
piece of paper and place it between the 
ends of detaching rolls and the holders, and 
by the back screw^s in holders turn up 



until the paper is slightly held between the 
ends of roll and holder ; this will insure a 
good cushion of the detaching roll upon 
the segment, but not enough to destroy the 
rolls or varnish. The brass top roll is an 
important setting. Why? As this roll is 
what keeps detaching from licking and also 
a proper tension on the stock when the 
comber is lapping on or delivering. This 
roll is fluted and should set on a line with 
the roll under it so that the flutes on brass 
roll will mash with the flutes underneath. 
The distance between the brass roll and 
detaching should be about 19 gauge when 
rolls are down and on the work. The top 
comb is of great importance, as it regulates 
the amount of waste taken out, straightens 
the fibers, deposits the waste on last rows 
of cylinders, needles to be brushed ofif by 
the brush in doffer, from there to go into 
waste. The closer this top comb is set 
to detaching roll the more waste is taken 
out by it. Why? Because the more fiber 
passes through it, also the more length of 
staple is combed. The closer to segment 
the more waste, the farther away the less. 
The top combs should hang parallel to seg- 



38 

ment, also true to segment on both ends 
with a 21 gauge for 20 per cent, waste. 
Waste can be regulated by three parts of 
the machine, top comb, cushion, rocker and 
feed nippers. Good judgment should be 
used in taking out waste. 

5CS Egyptian i^Yi^c waste. 
60s Pealer i6><'^ waste. 

loos Sea Island 20% waste. 

Other Nos. in proportion. 

The segment is set to steel roll i^" stock 
gauge at 5 index. Why? Because it is 
the part of the comber, on which most of 
the combing is done by the top comb and 
the detaching roll. 

The Cushions and Nippers should nip 
paper when ready to open off from the 
leather at from 4^ to 4^. Why? Be- 
cause this insures a proper grip on the 
stock, also proves that your cushions are 
ahead, ready to let go, and feed at the given 
time in harmony with the other settings. 

BUNTER AND RoCKER. 

Bunters should strike the blocks at 4^ 
index and begin to leave the blocks at 9 
index. Why? Because this regulates the 



distance the cushions are to travel back 
and forth in doing their work. 

Nippers and Cylinder. 

Nippers and cushions should be set to 
cylinder needles with a 21 gauge at 13^4 
index and gauge your cylinder all the way 
round till index shows 19. Why? Be- 
cause there are more or less high needles 
in cylinder, and these should come no 
closer than a 21 gauge to the leather ; also 
at these given indices the needles on the 
cylinder are up and in the work, and cusli- 
ions and nippers are at their lowest point. 

Nippers and Segment. 
Nippers should be just opening and on 
line with edge of segment and set to deliv- 
ery roll with lyl" stock gauge at 5 index. 
Why? Because your feed is about to 
begin through top comb, that which the 
cylinder needles have just passed through, 
and also shows that all is free for feed to 
begin. Set top comb to segment with <i 
21 gauge. Always set from back, as that 
is where they are lifted. The set screws 
on the top of the comb are only for safety; 
in case anything on back of comb breaks 



40 

or slips, the comb cannot get in on the 
cylinder. After the top comb is set to 
cylinder with a 21 gauge turn the safety 
screws on top of comb down on blocks 
till it nips paper. Take care not to litt 
top comb oft from 21 gauge. Top comb 
should be set at 5^4 index. Why? Be- 
cause every part that comes in contact 
with the work to be delivered is ready 
to do its work as soon as the comb is 
down, and also the segment is ready to 
deliver when comb is down at this time 
or index, as you then get the full length 
of segment ; in other words, the wide sur- 
face of the segment part is used. 

Detaching Roll and Segmext. 

The detaching roll should be down on 
segment at 6^ index, as at that time the 
machine is ready to feed. It should be 
ready to come up and nip paper at 9 
index, as the stock is feeding through at 
that time. 

Brass Roll to Detaching. 

This roll should set ij4 as close as 20 
gauge to the detaching roll at I2j4 index, 
as with this space the delivery will be 



smoother ; also the proper tension will be 
on the stock between the brass and detach- 
ing rolls. 

Nippers. 
Should be opening or just leaving the 
leather at 4>^ index. Why? Because the 
cushion is ahead to do its work. The nip- 
per raises to be out of the way when ma- 
chine feeds. Nippers should close or just 
touch at 9 index. Why? As the feed has 
come in on cushion and must be back ni 
time for cylinder needle. 

Lap Feed. 

The lap should start to feed in at 6 
index. Why? As the nippers are open 
and cushion ahead it is necessary for the 
feed to begin before nippers close. 

The Delivery Roll moves back at from 
lYz to i-yi index. Why? To lap on the 
cotton, which has just passed through the 
top comb on to that which is to come 
through, making a compact web. This roll 
should move forward at 6 to 6^ index. 
Why? The lapping on is done, the de- 
taching roll is on the lap, the top comb is 
down in place, the amount of feed for- 



ward is then combed and delivered. Cyl- 
inder brushes should be set to cylinder 
deep enough to keep needles clean and to 
brush bottom of needles. 

The DoFFER should be set" just to touch 
the ends of cylinder brush, as should the 
doffer rub cylinder brush hard, the comber 
waste will be curly. Brushes should be 
set about twice a year on account of wear. 

Lapping on and Pick Motion. 

The pick catch should be down to feed 
back at 1^/4 index to lap on stock. Should 
also be in motion to feed forward and 
deliver at 6^. The pick gets its motion 
up and down from the circle eccentric. 
This circle eccentric can be moved to make 
machine shorten or lengthen its lapping on 
by loosening the set screws on the circle 
eccentric and moving it forward to shorten 
and backward to lengthen. This is very 
important for nice lapping and smooth 
work. 

Feed and Waste. 

The earlier the feed is started and nip- 
pers are opened the less waste is made. 



The later you do these things the more 
waste. 

Draft of comber equals the product of 
the diam.eter of feed roll, and all drivers 
gears divided by the product of diameter 
of calender roll and all driven gears. 
Pocket Settings. 

Set segments on line at 5 index. 

Set cushions to steel roll at 4^ index. 

Set cushions and nippers to cylinder at 
20 gauge. 

Set hunter screws to strike block 4^ 
index. 

Set hunter screws to leave block 9 index. 

Set hunter with first step 5/16 gauge. 

Set detaching to nip paper 6^^ index. 

Should be same tension 9 index. 

Steel roll start back 1% index. 

Steel roll start forward 6 index. 

Feed from 4^ to 6. This depends on 
the amount of waste taken out. 

Top comb down at 5 for Sea Island, 
Egyptian, Allen, Peeler, and 1% cotton 5^ 
to 6. 

Nippers way up at 7^ index. 



Nippers down and back at 12 index. 
Catch out of notch 12 index. 
Catch down and back 2 index. 
Set brass roll to 21 gauge 18 index. 
Set brushes to bottom of needles. 
Comber Needles. 

Size No. No. 



No. of Bars. 


N 


eedles 


per In. 


in Bar 


I, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 




22 


28 


266 


7, 8, 9< 




24 


34 


323 


10, II, 




26 


48 


456 


12. 13, 




28 


54 


513 


14, 15' 




30 


66 


627 


16, 17, 




33 


80 


855 



Comber Hand Work. 

After starting in morning, oil detaching 
rolls, stop the comber with the nippers 
clear up, raise the top comb, roll out under 
ends with finger brush, oil rolls, put back 
in place, put oi\ weight, pick top combs, put 
down in place and start up comber. Oil 
top and bottom rolls once a day ; oil all 
combs and bearings and around ge^r head 
of machine twice a day. Oil rolls in draw 
box or head once a day. Oil brush three 



45 



times a week. Oil all slow motions once 



a week, Monday morninj 



OlJ 



cylinder 



shaft once per day ; clean and oil combers 
every Thursday ; brush and sweep up four 
times a day at 8:00, 10:00, 2:00 and 4:00. 
Wire brush three times per week. Use 
broom corn to clean under brass guides 
and detaching roll at 7:20, 9:15, 11:00, 
1-30, 3:15 and 5:00 o'clock. Change cans 
at 7:00, 8:30, 10:00, II :30, 2:00, 3:30 and 
5:00 o'clock, being about i>2 hours be- 
tween. 



FINISHER DRAWING. 

The next operation after the comber is 
two or three processes of finisher drawing. 
Some mills have only two, most have 
three. Six ends are doubled into one at 
each process. Why? Because combing is 
a very uneven process and you have to 
double as often as possible to even the 
w-ork before it gets to the other processes. 
Care should be taken to crowd these 
strands close side by side to cover up 
selvages. The draft should not exceed the 
doublings. Less is better. The more 
doubling the evener the yarn. Yarns from 
No. 50 up should undergo four processes 
of roving frames, as roving frames even 
up very fast. Why? Because any imper- 
fections in roving, such as thick and thin 
places when doubled and redrawn, give 
these faults a different relation to each 
other. Thus a thin place on one is apt to 
come opposite a thick place, and when you 
run double roving in creel it will give a 
more even result. The four processes are 
slubber, first intermediate, second inter- 
mediate and jacks or fly frames; rolls, 



47 

twist and draft must be right on these 
frames or previous work is ruined. 

Rule : — The required hank divided by Yi 
of hank in creel will give draft required in 
frame to make required roving without any 
allowance for take-up in twist. The con- 
stant number divided by required draft 
will give draft gear wanted ; then draft 
multiplied by Yi of hank in creel gives 
hank on spindle without twist, and that 
times .98 or 2 per cent, less for twist will 
give the exact hank that can be made from 
any hank in creel with any draft on ma- 
chine. 

The number of yards of cloth to the 
pound avoirdupois=its width in inches by 
the weight in Troy grains ot one square 
inch and divide the product into 194.44 and 
quotient will be number of yards to the 
pound. 

To find average number of yarn re- 
quired to produce cloth of any weight, 
width and pick, add together number of 
picks per inch of warp and filling; multiply 
this sum by number of yards per pound 
desired and this product by desired width 



in inches. Divide by 840 and quotient will 
be the average yarn required ; for any in- 
crease in weight by sizing or starching the 
yarn, allowance must be made in the yarn. 
This will form an approximate basis. 

Care of Combers. 
All persons employed as operatives or 
about combers should be instructed as to 
the importance of having a time to do their 
oiling, cleaning, brushing, picking top 
combs and attending to it at that time, and 
not when they feel like it, as delays are 
serious. Comber hands should not be al- 
lowed to leave their combers to go to sink 
or talk with any person away from their 
combers without having someone looking 
after their work while they are away, as 
a roller lap may cause a broken cylinder 
or other serious damage ; also other parts 
may work loose, which means damage to, 
the machine, also bad results to product. 
The rule should be a place for everything 
and everything in its place; a time for 
everything and everything done at that 
time. 



49 

DRAWING FRAMES. 

The process of drawing is very simple 
and yet it is very important. The rolls 
should be perfectly true and all parts of 
machine should be well oiled. 

The draft of the machine and the set- 
ting of the rolls should be looked after 
carefully. The draft of machine should 
never under any circumstances exceed the 
number of ends put up in the back, and 
also the draft should not be too short, as 
the intermediate draft between the rolls 
will not take care of the sliver in the 
proper manner, but the cotton will kink up 
between the rolls and sliver will be bunchy. 

Oftentimes the stirrups, which are 
screwed to the weights, work loose and rest 
upon a rod which passes through these 
stirrups for the purpose of lifting the pres- 
sure ofif of the rolls. When this happens 
the result is uneven drawing sliver, from 
which will also result uneven slubber 
roving. 

This portion of the frame should be in 
spected at least once a week. 

The speed of front roll on drawing 



50 

frame is same as revolutions per minute of 
pulley on end of this roll ; 400 R. P. M. is 
a good speed to run. 

To find the draft of drawing frames, 
take the back roll gear as the first driver 
and then the diameter of the front roll 
and all drivers divided by the diameter of 
back roll and all driven gears will give 
draft of the machine. 

Back roll gear=45 teeth. 

Change gear=5o teeth. 

Crown gear=ioo teeth. 

Front roll gear^22 teeth. 

Diameter of back roll^i^". 

Diameter of front roll=:i%". 

Thus : — 

45X100X11 
50X 22X 9- 
=5 the draft of 

machine. 
Settings for Drawing Rolls. 
For i>^" Stock. 
First and second rolls=i 5/16" center to 

center. 
Second and third rolls^i^" center to 

center. 



51 

Third and fourth rolls=i 7/16" center to 

center. 

For ij4" Stock. 
First and second rolls=i^" center to 

center. 
Second and third rolls=i 7/16" center to 

center. 
Third and fourth rolls=i 9/16" center to 

center. 

For lys" Stock. 
First and second rolls= 17/16" center to 

center. 
Second and third rolls=i^" center to 

center. 
Third and fourth rolls=i^8" center to 

center. 

To find what pinion gear to put on a 
drawing frame when you wish to change 
the weight of the sliver : 

Rule : — Multiply the number of grains 
desired by the gear in use and divide by 
the number of grains in sliver being made 
at present time. 

Example : — A 40 tooth pinion gives 60 
grains to the yard, what gear will give 63 
grains to the yard of sliver? 



52 

63X40 

6o 
^42 teeth=the required pinion. 

To find what draft, in the drawing 
frame, will produce a required hank draw- 
ing from a given hank carding, multiply 
the number of ends put up into back of 
frame by the hank drawing required and 
divide by the hank carding. This will give 
the required draft. 

To find what hank carding is required 
to produce a required hank drawing witii 
the draft of frame being given, multiply 
the number of ends put up by the hank 
drawing required and divide by the draft 
of the frame. This will give the required 
hank carding. 

To find the coils of drawing in the draw- 
ing can for each revolution that the can 
makes, take the bottom plate as a driver 
and its speed as i, and then ascertain by 
speed rule the number of revolutions that 
the top coiler plate makes to i of the bot- 
tom. 

The rolls should be set Ys", 3/16", and 
yi" for the first and second, second and 



53 

third, third and fourth, respectively. This 
designates the distance between the centers 
of the rolls over and above the length of 
staple. 

The back rolls are set farther apart be- 
cause they have to take care of the stock 
in a more bulky form than the others. 

The production of a drawing frame is 
found by multiplying the circumference of 
calender roll by revolutions per minute by 
total minutes run by weight of one yard 
of sliver by number of deliveries and 
dividing by 36 inches in one yard and 
ycco grains in one pound. 

Diameter of calender roll=3". 

Revolutions per minutes=250. 

Number of deliveries=6. 

Weight of one yard=8o grains. 

Time frame runs=50 hours. 

What is production ? 
3X31416X250X6X60X50X80 

36X7000 
= 1346 lbs. 

A good roll varnish for leather covered 
drawing rolls: — 

8 ozs. glue. 



4 ozs. gum arable. 

I qt. Ascetic acid. 

Boil till glue and gum arable are thor- 
oughly dissolved, and then, after the mix- 
ture cools off, add one tablespoonful of 
oil of origanum. Keep in tightly corked 
bottle and pour out each time only what 
is needed to varnish the rolls on hand. 

Total and intermediate or break drafts 
of drawing: back vo\\=iys" diameter=43 
tooth gear. 

Gear on end of back roll=24 teeth. 

This 24 drives a gear of 36 teeth. 

On same stud as 36 is a 40 tooth gear. 

This 40 drives third roll gear 24 teeth 

Draft gear^45 teeth. 

Crown gear^gS teeth. 

Front roll gear=22 teeth. 

Gear on end of front roll=24 teeth. 

This 24 drives gear of 40 teeth. 

On same stud as 40 is a gear of 24 teeth. 

This 24 drives second roll gear of 38 
teeth. 

Diameter of second, third and fourth 
rolls=i>^". 

Diameter of front roll=i^". 



55 

24X40X9 
36X24X9 

:=i.iii=draft between third 

and fourth rolls. 

38X40X11 

24X24X9 
:=3.225=draft between first 

and second rolls. 

24X36X43X98X24X24X 9 
40X24X45X22X40X38X9 
= 1.452 draft second and third rolls. 

1 . 1 1 1 X 1.452X3.225=5. 20=total draft 
rolls. 

43X98X11 

45X22X9 
=5.2o=total draft of rolls. 



56 

SPEED FRAMES. 

The slubber is the first speed frame upon 
which the roving is placed upon a wooden 
bobbin. 

The draft of slubber should run between 
4 and 5. 

The hank slubber roving depends a good 
deal upon the requirements of the room, as 
the slubbers have to turn off a sufficient 
production to keep the next process sup- 
plied. 

To find the draft constant on slubber. 
take the back roll gear, crown gear, front 
roll gear and diameters of both the back 
and front rolls. Then the diameter of 
front roll times back roll gear, times crown 
gear, divided by front roll gear, times 
diameter of back roll will give the draft 
constant. • 

Back roll gear=56. 

Crown gear=9o. 

Front roll gear^40. 

Diameter back roll=i". 

Diameter front roll^i34"- 

56X90X10 
40X8 



57 

= i57.50=constant draft. 

Constant divided by draft desired will 
give the gear needed. 

Rule to find twist gear to put on frame : 
Square the number of teeth in gear that 
is on frame at the present time, multiply 
by the hank roving being made, divide by 
the hank desired and find the square root 
of this result. Thus: — If you are making 
a .40 hank roving and you have a 45 tooth 
twist gear on the frame, what twist gear 
will be required for a .50 hank roving? 

45X45=2025. 

2025X40=810. 

810-^.50=1620. 

The square root of i62o=a 40 tooth 
twist gear. 

To find the lay gear proceed in same 
manner as in finding the twist gear. 

Roving being made=.40 hank. 

Lay gear on frame=35 teeth. 

Roving desired=.50 hank. 

What lay gear is required? 

35X35 — 1225. 

1225X40=490. 

490^.50=980. 



58 

The square root of 98o=a 31 lay gear. 

To find the draft gear or pinion required 
when you are changing both the hank rov- 
ing and also the creel roving. 

Rule : — The hank being made, times 
creel roving desired, times the gear in use, 
divided by the hank roving desired, times 
the creel roving in use will give the pinion 
required. 

Example: — If a frame is making a 5 
hank roving with a 1.50 hank in the creel 
and a 35 tooth pinion gear, what pinion 
will you have to put on to make an 8.00 
hank roving with 2.25 hank in creel? 

5.00X2.25X35 
. 8.00X1.50 
=32 8 or a 33 tooth gear. 

The hank desired on the spindle multi- 
plied by 2 and divided by the draft desired 
in the frame will give the hank creel rov- 
ing required. 

Example: — If you desire an 8.00 hank 
roving on the spindle and a draft of 6 in 
the frame, what hank roving is required m 
the creel? 



59 

2X8.00 
6 

=2,66 the creel roving required. 

To find tlie production of a speed frame, 
multiply the circumference of the front roll 
by the R. P. M. of front roll, times total 
minute run. times weight of i yard, times 
number of spindles, and divide by 36 inches 
in I yard and 7COO grains in i pound. 

Example:— R. P. M. front roll=98. 

Diameter front roll=i^". 

Weight of I yard=i.04 grains. 

Time run=50 hours. 

Number of spindles=i92. 

What is production? 

11^X3-1416X98X60X50X1.04X192 
36X7000 
=823.35 pounds. 

The circumference of front roll times 
R. P. M., times total minutes run, divided 
by 36 inches in one yard and 840 yards in 
one hank will give the hanks per spindle. 

Diameter of roll=i^". 

R. P. M.=ioo. 

Time run=5o hours. 

What is hank per spindle? 



i>^X3-Hi6X 100X60X50 
36X840 
=35.08 hank per spindle. 

R. P. M. of spindle divided by the de- 
sired turns per inch in roving, times cir- 
cumference of front roll will give the R. 
P. M. that front roll will have to make in 
order to give the required twist. 

Example: — If you desire 4 turns to the 
inch in roving and diameter of front roll 
is i^" and spindle turns 1400 times per 
minute, how many R. P. M. must front 
roll make to give the desired number of 
turns per inch ? 

lys" X 3-1416 ^ 3-53" = circumference 
front roll. 

4X3o3=i4-i2. 

1400^14.12=99 R. P. M. of front roll. 

To find average hank, take the number 
of hanks of each kind and multiply by the 
average size and find the sum of the sev- 
eral results obtained in this manner ; then 
add together the total number of hanks 
and divide, and the result will be the aver- 
age hank. 

Example : — 





Average 


Hanks 


Hank roving 


size 


per spindle 


8.00 


8.25 


32 


540 


5-15 


40 


6.00 


6.02 


38 



What is average hank roving? 
32X8.25=264.00 
40X5-15=206.00 
38X6.02=228.76 



698.76- 



IIO 

110=6.35: 



698.76 
average hank. 



-* 



^ 



62 

TWIST IN ROVING. 

The amount of twist necessary in roving 
depends upon the quality and length of 
staple that is being run through the frame. 

The standard twist is reckoned at 1.20 
times the square root of the hank roving 
being made. 

In some mills the carder is compelled by 
the superintendent to stick to this standard 
twist in making roving, and the result is 
disastrous as far as good spinning is con- 
cerned. 

There should be twist enough put into 
the roving so that, as the back roller draws 
the stock into the frame, the roving w^ill 
not be stretched, thereby lessening the 
number of fibers in its cross-section and 
resulting in bad spinning and light work. 

On the other hand, if too much twist is 
inserted, it will also result in bad spinning, 
as the twist will resist the effort of the 
rollers to draw the stock, and will also 
cut or groove the leather on the top rolls 
and destroy the usefulness of these top 
rolls until they are recovered. After the 
roving reaches the back roll of the frame. 



63 

the twist has accomplished the purpose for 
which it is inserted, as the other rolls draw 
llie stock and remove all traces of the 
twist. 

No fixed rule can be given that will 
answer in all cases concerning the amount 
of twast that should be inserted, as condi- 
tions that exist in one mill may be alto- 
gether different to those existing in nu- 
other. The best w^ay is for each overseer 
to test the tw^ist in his roving from time 
to time, and in this w^ay the loss or gain 
in amount of twist will be noted before 
the roving gets into the spinning depart- 
ment and causes trouble. 

If a full bobbin is stood upon a smooth 
surface and it is possible to take hold of 
roving and draw^ about eighteen or tw^enty 
inches from the bobbin w^ithout stretching 
the strand, there is enough twist. 



64 



ROLL SETTINGS ON SPEED 






FRAMES. 








Slubbers. 




Stock 




Steel Rolls 


Cap Bars 


iVs in. 




I 3/16 in. 


5/16 in. 


1^4 in. 




iVs in. 


7/16 in. 


i}i in. 




iy2 in. 


9/16 in. 




First Intermediates. 




Stock 




Steel Rolls 


Cap Bars 


iVs in. 




I 3/16 in. 


1/16 in. 


iM in. 




i^in. 


1/8 in. 


iVs in. 




I 7/16 in. 


3/16 in. 




Second Intermediates 




Stock 




Steel Rolls 


Cap Bars 


iVs in. 




I 3/16 in. 


1/8 in. 


i^in. 




i>4 in. 


3/16 in. 


i^ in. 




I 7/16 in. 


3/16 in. 




Fly 


Frame or Jack. 




Stock 




Steel Rolls 


Cap Bars 



lys in. 1% in. 1/16 in. 

i^ in. i}i in. 1/16 in. 

i^ in. 1% in. 1/4 in. 

The twist per inch is determined by 
finding how many turns the spindle makes 
for one revolution of the front roll and 



65 

then dividing by the circumference of the 
front rolL 

To find the number of revolutions that 
the spindle makes for one revolution of 
the front roll, take the gear on end of front 
roll and its speed as one, and then find 
speed of spindle by speed rule, thus : — 

Gear on end of front roll=ii5 teeth. 

Outside top cone gear=40 teeth. 

Inside top cone gear=24 teeth. 

Twist gear=4i teeth. 

Gear on main shaft=54 teeth. 

Outside spindle shaft gear=58 teeth. 

Skew gear on spindle shaft=50 teeth. 

Gear on spindle=26 teeth. 

115X24X54X5 Q 
40X41X58X26 
=3.013 turns per revolution. 

Circumference of i^"roll = i^X3-i4i6 
=3.53". 

3-Oi3-^3-53 = -853 turns per inch. 

The change places on a speed frame are 
five in number : — 

1. The draft or pinion gear. 

2. The lifting or lay gear. 

3. The twist gear. 



4- The tension or rack gear. 
5. The cone gear. 

In changing over a frame from one 
hank roving to another usually the first 
four only are changed. 

To find the hank of any roving reel off 
any number of yards and mult^iply this 
number by 8 1/3 and divide by the weight 
of this number of yards in grains, and the 
result will be the hank roving. 

Example: — If 60 yards weigh 50 grains, 
what is the hank roving? 

60X8 1/3=500. 

500-4-50=10. hank roving. 

If 12 yards weigh 20 grains, what is the 
hank roving? 

12X8 1/3=100. 

100-4-20=5. hank roving. 

If the front roll of a second interme- 
diate frame makes 133 revolutions per 
minute and has 128 spindles, and the front 
roller of a jack frame of 192 spindles on 
8.00 hank roving makes 98 revolutions per 
minute, how many jack frames will this 
second intermediate frame support? 

Front roll on second intermediate=i>^" 



67 

diameter. 

Front roll on jack frame=i^" diam- 
eter. 

Back roll on jack frames i" diameter. 

Front roll gear jack frame=30 teeth. 

Crown gear jack frames lOO teeth. 

Draft gear jack frame=30 teeth. 

Back roll gear jack frame=56 teeth. 

First find yards produced per minute by 
front roll on second intermediate. 
i33Xi>^X3-i4i6Xi28 
= 1671.33 yards per minute. 

36 

Next find speed of jack frame back roll. 
98X30X30 

=15.75 R- P- M- 
100X46 

I 5-75X8X3-I4I6X384 
8X36 
=527.78 yards per minute. 
1671.33^527.72=3.16 frames. 
What would be the rovings and weights 
necessary to make a 40's yarn with the fol- 
lowing drafts in the different machines 
through which a carded yarn would pass? 
Roving run double in spinning frame. 



68 

Draft of spinning frame=io. 

Draft of jack=6. 

Draft of second intermediate=5.32. 

Draft of first intermediate=5. 

Draft of slubber=4. 

Draft of finished drawing=5. (6 ends 
up). 

Draft of breaker dravving=4.5 (6 ends 
up). 

Draft of card=ioo. 

Draft of finisher picker=5. (5 laps 
fed). 

Draft of intermediate picker=4.5 (4 
laps fed). 

2X40-^io=:8.oo hank roving in spinning 
creel. 

2X8.00^6=2.66 hank roving in jack 
creel. 

2X2.66-^5.32^1.00 hank roving in sec- 
ond intermediate creel. 

2Xi.oo^5=.40 hank roving in first in- 
termediate creel. 

40^4=. 10 hank dra\ving=83 grains to 
yard. 

83X5-i-6=69 grains per yard ofif 
breaker. 



69X4-5"^6=^5i-7 or 52 grains per yard 
carding. 

52X100=5200 plus .05 for \vaste=546o 
grains or 12.22 ozs. 

1222X5^5 = 12.22 ounces to yard inter- 
Piediate lap. 

i2.22X4.5-i-4=i3-75 ounces to yard on 
breaker picker. 
Tm: LiFTiNo Roll on Back of Slltjit'.fr. 

The surface speed of this lifting roll, 
which raises and supports the strand of 
drawing sliver in its passage, from the can 
to the back roll of slubbing machine, should 
at least equal and in fact slightly ex- 
ceed the surface speed of the back roll. 
This causes the drawing sliver to be 
delivered to the back roll without having 
been stretched, as is the case when the 
back roll drags the drawing sliver faster 
than the lifting roll delivers it. 

Most carders take it for granted the 
surface speed of this roll is correct and, in 
fact, never think of it. 

Example : — Front roll=25o R. P. M. 

Small front roll gear=40 teeth. 

Crown gear=9o teeth. 



Draft gear=35 teeth. 

Back roll gear=56 teeth. 

Chain gear on back roll = i2 teeth. 

Diameter of back roll =i". 

Diameter of lifting roll=2%". 

What chain gear should be on lifting 
roll? 

250X40X3 5 
90X56 
=69.44 R. P. M. of back roll. 

i"X3- 1416=3.1416 inches = circumfer- 
ence of back roll. 

69.44X3.1416 = 217.15 inches drawing 
required per minute. 

2^"X3-i4i6=7.46 inches = circumfer- 
ence of lifting roll. 

217.15-^-7.46=27.70 R. P. M., lifting 
roll should make. 

69.44X12 
27.70 
=30 teeth on end of lifting roll. 

Total and intermediate drafts of 
speeder. 

Back roll=56 tooth gear=i" diameter. 

Crown gear=ioo teeth. 

Draft gear=35 teeth. 



71 

Front roll=40 tooth gear=i^" diam- 
eter=ioo R. P. M. 

25 tooth gear back roll drives 23 teeth 
middle roll. 

Find total and intermediate drafts. 

56X100X5 

35 X 40X4 
=5=total draft. 

23X1" 

= 1.087 — draft between second 
and third rolls. 

5.-:- 1. 087 =4. 599= draft between first 
and second rolls, or 

IQ0X40X35X25 

100X56X23 

=27.15 R. P. M. of 

second roll. 

27.15X3-1416 = 85.29 inches delivered 
per minute second roll. 

ICO X 1/4 X 3.1416 = 392.70 inches per 
minute first roll. 

392. 70-^85. 29=4.6o=draft between first 
and seco^id rolls, or 

23X56X100X10 

25X35X 40X 8 



=4.6o=draft between 
first and second rolls. 

4.6oXi.o87=5.oco2=total draft. 
Costs of Carding. 

If picker room turns out a production of 
60,000 pounds and the total amount paid 
in that portion of the room is $42.00, the 
cost per pound equals $42.00^60,000= 
.0007 per pound. 

If the cards produce 51,000 pounds of 
sliver and the total amount paid is $70.00, 
the cost per pound for obtaining this 
sliver equals 70.^51,000, or .00137 per 
pound. 

If combers produce 45,000 pounds with 
total pay amounting to $65,00. the cost per 
pound equals 65.-^45,000, or .00144 per 
pound. 

If total production on draw frames is 
40,000 pounds and the total pay amounts 
to $32.00, the cost per pound equals 32.^ 
40,000, or .0008 per pound. 

If slubber frame has 64 spindles and size 
of roving is .40 hank and price per hank is 
.09, what is cost per pound? 

64-i-.40=i6o pounds produced for .09. 



73 

.C9^i6o=.oco56 per pound. 

If first intermediate frame has io8 
spindles and size of roving=i.oo hank and 
price per hank=.ii, what is the cost per 
pound ? 

108^1.00=108 pounds for .11. 

.ii-i-io8=.ooioi per pound. 

If the second intermediate frame has 
128 spindles and roving sizes 2.66 hank 
and price per hank equals .11, what is the 
cost per pound? 

128^2.66=48 pounds for .11. 

.11-^48=. 00275 per pound. 

If jack frame has 192 spindles and rov- 
ing sizes 8.00 hank and price per hank is 
.13, what is cost per pound? 

192^8.00=24 pounds for .13. 

.13^24=. 00543 per pound. 

If total amount paid to overseer, second- 
hand and other necessary help equals 
$180.00 and pounds produced equal 40,000, 
the cost per pound equals : 

1 80.-^40,000=. 0045 per pound. 

Thus, summing up total cost per pound, 
we have the following: — 



74 

Per lb. 

Cost of picking 0007 

Cost of carding 00137 

Cost of combing 00144 

Cost of drawing 0008 

Cost of slubbing 00056 

Cost of first intermediate ooioi 

Cost of second intermediate 00275 

Cost of jack 00543 

Cost of overseer, second-hand, mis- 
cellaneous 0045 



Total cost in card department. .01856 



75 

CONSTANT NUMBERS. 

On almost all machines used in the 
carding department it is possible to change 
the speed of certain parts by putting on 
gears or pulleys of different sizes, accord- 
ing to the required change. 

The particular gear provided for this 
purpose is known as a change-gear; when- 
ever a calculation is to be made, where a 
change-gear is used, it is possible to obtain 
what is known as a "constant," whereby 
it is easy to obtain any desired result with- 
out having to go through the entire calcula- 
tion every time. This constant represents 
a part of the calculation already worked 
out, and, in practice, the knowledge of the 
constants of the different machines results 
in the saving of considerable time to the 
overseer. 

To find constant, whether the calculation 
is for speed, draft or other result, proceed 
with the calculation under the regular rule 
for obtaining the result ; but suppose the 
change-gear to have only one tooth. Sup- 
pose a shaft making 300 R. P. M. carries 
a 90 tooth change-gear, which drives a 50 



76 

tooth gear on another shaft, which also 
carries a 30 tooth gear that drives a 45 
tooth gear, what is speed of 45 tooth gear? 
300X90X3Q 
50X45 
=360 R. P. M. 

Now, supposing the change-gear has 
only one tooth, what is the constant? 

3C0X1X30 
50X45 
^4 constant speed. 

Now, having found the constant, it is 
an easy matter to find what change-gear 
will give the speed required. 

Divide the required speed by the con- 
stant and the result will be the required 
gear. 

If you desire to run this shaft at a speed 
of 300 R. P. M., what is the change-gear 
required ? 

300-f-the constant 4=75 teeth required 
in the change gear. 



SQUARE ROOT. 

To find the square of a number, multiply 
the number by itself. 

What is the square of 25 : 

25X25=625, the square of 25. 

What is the square of 13? 

13X13=169, the square of 13. 

In finding the square of any number of 
which the last figure is 5, the last two 
figures will always be 25, and a short 
method of finding the square of any num- 
ber ending with the figure 5 is to place the 
figures 25 down and then multiply ilie 
number before the figure 5 by one number 
higher than itself, and place result before 
the 25, thus : — 

What is the square of 25? 

First put down the number 25. 

Second multiply the figure before the 
5 by 3, which is one number higher than 
2; then 3X2=6; affix 25 to 6 and you 
have 625 Ans. 

What is the square of 45? 

5X4=20; affix 25 and you have 2025 
Ans. 

What is the square of 115? 



78 

12X11 = 132 ' affix 25 and 13,225 Ans. 

What is the square of 95? 

10X9=90; affix 25 and you have 9025 
Ans. 

What is the square root of any number? 

The square root of a number denotes the 
number which muUiplied by itself will 
equal the number of which you desire to 
find the square root. 

To find the square root of any number, 
put down the number and then, starting at 
the right, separate the number into periods 
of two figures each ; thus, if you desire to 
find the square root of 13,225, after sep- 
arating into periods you will have the first 
period of i ; the second will be 32 and the 
last will be 25, and in putting the number 
down on paper it will look like this, 
Vi 32 25. As there are only five fig- 
ures in the number, the first period will 
consist of only one figure, the figure i. 

Then proceed as follows : — 
Vi 32 25(115 



I 
21X1)32 



21 



225X5)1125 
II25 



Rule for Square Root. 

First find the largest number which mul- 
tiplied by itself will be contained in the 
first period. Place this figure in the cjuo- 
tient, then place its square under the first 
period. After subtracting, bring down the 
next period of two figures. Now^ double 
the figure in the quotient and place it at 
the left for a trial divisor as in example. 

In example, i is the first figure in the 
quotient, as it is the largest number which, 
multiplied by itself or squared, will be 
contained in the first period, which is i. 
After subtracting, the next period, which 
is 32, is brought down ; double the first 
figure of the quotient for a trial divisor and 
you have 2 ; 2 is contained in 3 once ; so 
place I in quotient as second figure, also 
affix the figure i to the trial divisor and 
you have 21. 2iXior2iis placed under 
the 32 and subtracted and leaves 11 for a 



80 

remainder. Bring down the next period, 
which is 25, and affix it to 11, and you have 
1 125 for a dividend. Now midtiply the 
two figures of the quotient by 2 and you 
have 22, which you place at the left for 
a trial divisor. 22 will go into 112 five 
times ; place the figure 5 in the quotient 
and also affix the figure 5 to the number 
22 and you have 225 for a divisor ; then 
5X225^1125, which, being placed under 
the dividend, leaves no remainder ; there- 
fore the square root of 13,225 = 115. 

Multiply the quotient by itself, and its 
product is same as number of which you 
wish to extract the square root, the ex- 
ample is correct. 

What is square root of 85,264? 

V8 52 64(292=:square root 
4 



49X9)452 
441 



582X2) 1 164 
1 164 



81 



No. 


Sq.Rt. 


No. 


Sq.Rt. No. 


Sq.Rt. 


1. 00. 


. 1. 00 


5-50- 


. 2 345 1 10.00. 


• 3-162 


1.26. 


. 1. 122 


5.80. 


. 2.408 11.00. 


- 3-217 


1.50. 


• 1-225 


6.00. 


. 244912.00. 


- 3-464 


1.76. 


• 1-327 


6.20. 


. 2.4901300. 


. 3.606 


2.00. 


. I.414 


6.50. 


. 2550II4.00. 


• 3-742 


2.24. 


- 1-497 


6.80. 


. 2.608 15.00. 


• 3-873 


2.5c. 


• 1. 581 


7.00. 


. 264616.00. 


. 4.00 


2.76. 


. 1. 661 


7.20. 


. 2.683 17.00. 


• 4-123 


3.00. 


- 1-732 


7-50. 


. 2 739! 18.00. 


• 4-243 


3.20. 


. 1.789 


7.80. 


. 2.793I190O. 


- 4.359 


3-50. 


. 1.871 


8.00. 


. 2.828120.00. 


• 4-472 


3.80. 


. 1.949 


8.20. 


. 2.86421.00. 


- 4-582 


4.00. 


. 2.00 


8.50. 


. 2915122.00. 


. 4.690 


4.20. 


. 2.049 


8.80. 


. 2.96623.00. 


- 4-795 


4.50. 


. 2. 121 


9.00. 


. 3.00 1 24.00. 


. 4-898 


4.80. 


. 2. 191 


9.20. 


. 3.033 1 25.00. 


• 5-00 


5.00. 


. 2.236 


9.50. 


• 3-o82| 




5 20. 


. 2.280 


9.80. 


• 3-130I 





82 

Vs^EIGHT OF LAP AND DRAFTS. 

Card Drafts. 

Ordinary print cloth stock^Qo to 115, 

Good American cotton=ii5 to 125. 

Staple cotton=i25 to 140. 

(If conditions permit.) 

For print cloth use 16 oz. lap. 

For 8. to 12. hank American cotton use 
13 to 14 oz. lap. 

For 12. to 16. hank Egyptian or peeler 
use 12 to 13 oz. lap. 

Finer hank staple cotton use 10 to 12 oz. 
lap. 

(According to running conditions.) 

Have draft on draw frames as long as 
conditions will allow, keeping under the 
number of doublings and finishing as light 
as possible to meet conditions. 

Have draft on slubber from 4 to 5. 

Have draft on intermediate from 5 to 6. 

Have draft on fly frame from 6 to 6.75, 
not over 7 if possible. 



83 

POINTS TO LOOK AFTER IN THE 

CARDING DEPARTMENT. 

In picker room cotton should be mixed 
carefully. Time spent on this work is 
never wasted if work is properly attended 
to. ' 

Picker should be well oiled and kept as 
clean as possible. 

Droppings taken out twice daily. 

Eveners inspected daily to see that they 
are in proper working condition. 

One bad working evener motion will 
throw out the numbers if not promptly at- 
tended to. 

Have beaters revolve about looo R. P. 
M., not over iioo R. P. M. 

Have fan draft sufficient to lay cotton 
evenly on cages, but not to drive cotton 
against cages forcibly. This can best be 
governed by observation. 

Have surface of cages and beater boxes 
as clean as possible at all times. 

Weigh every finished lap made and put 
back any that vary more than a half pound 
on either side. 



The draft of picking machinery is sel- 
dom if ever changed. 

Set feed rolls from blade of beater about 
the thickness of a two-foot rule. Set first 
grid bar the same, and last grid bar the 
width of a two-foot rule, and have first 
grid bar two inches lower than feed roll. 

The back grid bars are set farther away 
from the blade of the beater because after 
the cotton has been struck from the feed 
rolls by the beater blade, the fibers are 
loosened and the cotton has been reduced 
to a fleecy and fluffy state, and being thor- 
oughly opened requires a larger space. If 
they are set as close to the beater blade as 
the front or first grid bars, the beater is 
liable to roll the fibers into neps, thereby 
increasing the amount of work that the 
card has to accomplish. 

The air current should enter the trunk 
of the opener at exactly the same point as 
the cotton, so that the passage of the cotton 
through the trunk may be facilitated. 

On intermediate and finisher pickers, the 
air should enter through the grates in the 
doors of the chamber that is below the 



85 

grid bars and into which the droppings or 
impurities of the cotton fall, then under 
the feed rolls, then across the lower part 
of the circle described by the beater, then 
through the surface of the cages, then out 
through the ends of the cages and finally 
through the dust flue or pipe that is con- 
nected near the fan and conducts the air 
and dust to the dust room. 

This dust room obtains relief from the 
pressure of air that enters it from the 
various fans by means of a stack or chim- 
ney that permits this air to escape from 
the dust room. 

The area of this air shaft is governed 
by the number of flues or pipes that lead 
into the dust room. Care should be taken 
that the square feet in area of this air 
shaft exceeds the total area in square feet 
of all the flues that force air into the room. 

If these flues or pipes become clogged 
up with dust so as to interfere with the 
proper passage of the air current, the re- 
sult will be split and ragged edged laps, 
which are a great detriment to the proper 
running of the after processes. If fan 



86 

speed is too great or powerful, some of 
this dust and droppings will be sucked 
along with the cotton and result in dirty 
laps. 

On the cards see that setting of the dif- 
ferent parts are set properly. 

Be careful in putting oil into cylinder 
boxes, because if too much oil is put into 
them it runs down the end of the cylinder, 
works in on the card clothing, saturates 
the clothing and in a short while the cloth- 
ing will soften and become useless. 

Have defects wdiich some time appear 
on the cards remedied at once, and do not 
neglect small defects, as it does not take 
much to deteriorate the quality of the 
sliver. 

If a card strikes or raises after being 
set in the proper or desired manner, the 
clothing should be taken oflf and redrawn 
immediately, as a card might as well not 
be set at all if you have to draw off any 
of the parts after setting them. 

See that cards are perfectly level and 
air currents securely blocked. 

Insist on strippers having the surface of 



cylinder and doffer perfectly clean when 
they remove the stripping brush, and not 
leave a streak of cotton across the face of 
the clothing. 

See that all parts of sliver lap, ribbon 
lap machines and combers run free and 
true. That all stop motions, electrical or 
mechanical, act and stop the machines 
promptly. Have fluted rolls kept clean 
and flutes free from dirt and of the proper 
sharpness so that they will bite the stock 
in the proper manner. Leather covered 
rolls must be perfectly true, or cut and 
bunchy work will result. 

On draw frames have roll setting right ; 
have frame well oiled, rolls true and kept 
varnished, stop-motions acting promptly, 
stirrups swinging clear of sides of rolls to 
avoid friction, and clearers kept as clean 
as possible at all times. 

On speed frames see that gearing is oiled 
properly, rolls set to suit staple ; that sur- 
face speed of lifting roll on back of slubber 
equals the surface speed of back roll; that 
the builder works freely ; that traverse 
motion works properly ; that clearers are 



kept clean, and that the holes in traverse 
rod are not clogged up with bunches of 
waste. 

Terms and Their Meanings. 
Power is transmitted by the following 
means : 

I. Pulleys and belting. 
'2. Pulleys and ropes, cords or "bands." 

3. Gearing. 

4. Frictional contact. 

A shaft is a round bar of either steel or 
iron that rests' in bearings and can be 
rotated. A very small shaft, if running 
vertically, is called a "spindle;" if length- 
wise an "arbor." The bearing in or upon 
which the bottom of a spindle runs is 
known as a "step." The upper bearing 
which steadies the spindle is known as a 
"bolster." 

A countershaft is one by the aid of which 
the power is transmitted to the machine 
and is situated between the main shaft and 
the machine. 

A pulley is a wheel, the face of which is 
prepared to receive a belt, cord or rope. 
Pulleys are made of wood, iron or com- 



pressed paper. They are fastened to the 
shaft by set screws or keys and in many 
instances by both. They are solid, split, 
flat-faced, crown faced, guide, tight and 
loose, and tension pulleys. 

A flat-faced pulley is one having the 
whole width of its face parallel to the 
shaft. 

A crown-faced pulley has its face slightly 
raised in the center. The amount of crown- 
ing is about 1/16" to j/s" for high speed 
pulleys, and about /4" per foot of face 
width for low speed pulleys. 

When pulleys are used, tight and loose, 
in pairs, they are usually made flat-faced ; 
otherwise they are usually crowned. 

A split pulley is one that has been made 
in sections and may be placed on shaft 
without taking shaft from bearings. 

A solid pulley is cast in one piece and 
has to be slipped over end of shaft. 

A guide pulley is one that is used to 
change the direction of a belt. 

A tension pulley is one that is used to 
increase the arc of contact of the belt on 
other pulleys, thereby keeping the belt at 



90 

a proper tension. 

A cone may be assumed to be an extra 
long faced pulley or number of pulleys 
touching one another on one shaft. The 
diameter gradually ^reduces from one end 
to the other. By moving the belt you ob- 
tain a variable speed. 

A drum or cylinder is similar to a pulley 
and has an exceptionally long surface and 
has the same diameter its entire length. 

A rope driven pulley is one that has "V" 
shaped grooves cut in its face, thereby per- 
mitting the rope to obtain a stronger grip 
on the pulley. 

There are several kinds of gears: spur 
gears, bevel gears, worm gears, sprocket 
gears, ratchet gears and mangle gears. 

Spur gears transmit power between 
parallel shafts. 

Bevel gears transmit power between non- 
parallel shafts. 

Worm gears are driven by a screw or 
thread known as a worm. This method is 
used when a very low speed is desired. 

Sprocket gears drive by means of chains. 

Ratchet gears are used to obtain inter- 



91 

mitteiit motion and are driven by a pin. 

Mangle gears obtain reciprocating mo- 
tion from rotary motion. 
Oiling. 

As pickers are heavy running machines, 
they should be oiled twice daily. 

Cards should be well oiled daily ; comb- 
boxes at least twice a week, and also have 
grinders examine comb-boxes daily so that 
they will detect any that are liable to heat 
up and possibly cause fire. 

Oil drawing frames each day. 

Have fast motions on speed frames oiled 
twice a day and all slow motions once a 
week. 

Insist on speeder tenders oiling their 
spindles the first doff each morning. 

Oil spindle steps once a month. 

Rolls on speeders should be oiled daily. 

Examine hook bolster bearings on which 
bobbin gear shafts run at least once a 
month to be sure they contain a sufficient 
quantity of tallow. 

Examine spindle shaft bearing in the 
same manner twice a year. 

Oil spindle and bobbin shaft bearings 



92 

once a week. 

Strict adherence to these rules will save 
many dollars for the company in a year's 
run in the line of repairs. 
Scouring. 

The work of scouring the different ma- 
chines should be systematized in such a way 
that by doing a little each week the work 
will be accomplished with as little hin- 
drance as possible to the smooth running 
of the dift'erent sections of the department, 
and also so that the regular production will 
not be seriously diminished. 

The pickers should be thoroughly 
scoured every two months. 

Drawing frames every four or five 
weeks. 

Steel rolls on slubbers and first inter- 
mediate frames twice a year. 

Steel rolls on second intermediates, fly 
frames and jacks should be done annually. 

Bolsters on speed frames should be 
cleaned at least once a year. 

Bobbin gears and bobbin gear rails 
should be cleaned monthly. 

Spindle gears ought to be cleaned at least 



93 

once a year, twice if possible. 

If these rules are followed, cleanliness 
should be the result. 

Recovering of Top Rolls. 

The cost that is entailed in the carding 
department by the repairing or covering of 
top rolls is an expensive item, and the 
changing of leather covered top rolls 
should be carefully and intelligently looked 
after, as in many mills several top rolls 
are taken out and sent to be recovered 
when, if they were examined, they would 
be found to be in condition to run for an- 
other month. When changing top rolls the 
best way is to examine all the rolls care- 
fully, pick out those that you desire to send 
away ; change the rolls that remain by 
placing the second row in the back and 
filling in the first row with what new rolls 
you put in the frame. In this way you 
will be sure to always have a good front 
roll, which is absolutely necessary for the 
making of good roving. Top rolls on 
draw frames should always have a good 
coat of varnish upon them, especially the 
front roll. 



94 

Waste. 

The waste problem is a serious one for 
the manufacturer, and every possible 
method that is conceived of is tried for the 
purpose of reclaiming the loss that is in- 
curred by making of waste. Thousands of 
pounds of waste are made annually, and 
several thousands of pounds are made 
either through carelessness or thoughtless- 
ness on the part of the employees. 

What is meant by unnecessary waste and 
where is it most apt to be made? 

Unnecessary waste is made at almost 
every process through which the cotton 
passes until it is finally transformed into 
cloth. 

In the carding department unnecessary 
waste is made principally at the card, the 
drawing frame, and on the speed frame. 

At the card a stripper will oftentniies 
have laps running out, and the other laps 
on this section will probably have sufficient 
yards of cotton lap to run the card for 
perhaps one-half to three-quarters of an 
hour, but instead of allowing these laps to 
run until the most tightly compressed part 



95 

of the lap appears, which is about one yard 
from the end, he pulls out these laps for 
no other purpose than to have the laps all 
in together, so that he will not have to go 
back to change them later. 

At other times he will see an end of 
sliver broken and running on to the floor, 
but he takes his own time about piecing it 
up again. This is unnecessary waste and 
should not be tolerated. 

At drawing frames and slubbers, if the 
sliver does not happen to have been spliced 
together at the previous process, the em- 
ployee thinks nothing of taking a handful 
of perfectly coiled and good sliver and 
casting it into a waste can. 

At the speed frames a speeder tender 
will take out pieces or bobbins containing 
an hour's run on them and make waste of 
the roving on those bobbins either by cut- 
ting them off or pulling the roving from 
the bobbin. This is unnecessary waste. 



96 

ADVANTAGES OF TEXTILE 
SCHOOL. 

Every young man who enters into any 
business should be imbued with the ambi- 
tion to gain a place at the top of the busi- 
ness from which he hopes to obtain his 
livelihood. 

To the young man in the cotton industry 
the evening textile school is an invaluable 
assistance, as it teaches young men, who 
unfortunately lack the advantages of a 
higher education, the rudimentary and 
theoretical knowledge that is necessary, in 
conjunction with the practical experience 
which they obtain while they are working 
at their positions during the day, for them 
to rise above the common laborer. 

The textile school nurtures and in fact 
furnishes food to the brain, enkindles a 
latent ambition, stirs a man up so that, 
instead of being a sluggish machine, he 
desires to be a strong, capable, and efficient 
manager. 

The testing, during the day, of the 
studies that he follows up during the even- 
ing, makes of him a person who is inter- 



ested in his work instead of one who does 
only enough and no more each day than 
will satisfy the boss. 

Many intelligent, practical men are kept 
back by lack of the theoreticaj knowledge 
that is necessary to enable them to become 
efficient managers, and as they have not 
the means to obtain this knowledge except 
after working hours, the textile school is a 
valuable friend and should be supported 
by any community that is fortunate enough 
to have one. 



98 

QUALIFICATIONS FOR A GOOD 
OVERSEER. 

The overseer should have courage, cau- 
tion, patience, perseverance, and determina- 
tion. A combination of these attributes in 
a more or less degree goes to make what 
is known as man, and as the overseer is 
the one person upon whom the owners or 
managers of a factory, or in fact of any 
concern or establishment, place their de- 
pendence or confidence, he should do his 
best to show himself worthy of the con- 
fidence manifested by his superiors ; and in 
what better way can he prove himself 
worthy of this confidence than by being a 
man in the true sense of the word at all 
times and in running his department in a 
straightforward, honest and conscientious 
manner? 

The position of an overseer is not as 
comfortable a position for a man as it 
appears on the surface, as he has to take 
what is handed out from both ends of the 
line ; in other words, from capital and labor. 
And the manner in which the overseer 
handles and straightens out the differences 



and frictions that arise in his department 
denotes his fitness or lack of fitness for the 
position that he is intrusted with. 

To gain the confidence of the operatives 
it is necessary for the man in charge to be 
absohitely fair and square both to employer 
and employee. 

To be unfair to either one is soon certain 
to make the overseer's position untenable. 

The overseer should study the tempera- 
ments and dispositions of the operatives 
under his charge. Many hands are lost to 
a company through lack of patience on the 
part of the overseer. 

Favoritism is one thing that an overseer 
should carefully guard against, and he 
should at all times insist that his second- 
hand and section hands treat his employees 
as human beings, as the employee is the 
most necessary adjunct to the business. 



m 



INSTRUCTIONS FOR GRINDERS. 

1. The grinder and the assistant grinder 
are responsible for the work of the strip- 
pers and for the condition of cards. 

2. Any difficulty with cards or neglect 
of work by strippers is to be reported to 
the overseer at once. 

3- All settings and gearing must be 
made as the overseer directs, and no 
changes of the same made without his 
knowledge. 

4. The grinder or his assistant will at- 
tend to oiling of comb-boxes, cylinders, 



doffers and lickers-in, and will see that 
other oiling is done properly by strippers. 

5. Grind lightly and often is the rule. 

6. One card is to be ground daily by 
each set of wheels. 

7. Strip cards for grinding at 4:45 so 
as to have them clear by 6:00. 

8. Take wheels off grinding cards at 
5 :oo, and see that new ground cards are 
all right and that the grinding wheels are 
in proper condition for the next day. 

9. Have cards set up and wheels going 
by 7 130. 



101 

10. During the day the grinder and as- 
sistant will see that the strippers attend to 
their work as directed. 

11. While grinding, the boxes of the 
licker-in and feed rolls must be cleaned and 
the licker-in screens scoured; also see that 
mote knives are in place. 

12. Settings of doffer, feed roll, licker- 
in and mote knives will be tried at each 
grinding. 

13. Settings of "tops" will be tried at 
direction of the overseer. 



102 

INSTRUCTIONS FOR STRIPPERS. 

All cards must be running at 6:50 and 
I :oo P. M. 

Strip cards twice daily, beginning as soon 
as cards are straightened out, and have 
stripping all done by 8 :oo A. M. and 2 :30 
P. M. 

All cards must be rolled out daily. 

Wipe fronts with waste at 8 :oo, 9 130 
and 11:30 A. M. ; 2:30, 4:00 and 5:30 
P. M. This is important and must be fol- 
lowed closely. 

Keep waste off the floor at all times and 
the floor swept as the grinder directs. 

Cards will be doffed promptly at direc- 
tion of grinder, and cans pushed out of 
card alleys to drawing frames. 

Cards will be cleaned thoroughly twice 
daily with short handled brooms provided 
by grinder 

Oiling will be done before 9 130 A. M. 

Stripping and putting in of laps must be 
done exactly as the grinder directs. 



103 

INSTRUCTIONS FOR SPEEDER 
TENDERS. 

1. Oil spindles during first doff each 
morning. Section men will allow no ex- 
ception to this rule. 

2. See that steel rolls are clean at all 
times. 

3. Clean top rolls thoroughly once each 
week. Wipe top rolls and cap bars daily. 

4. Oil top rolls weekly after cleaning. 

5. Pick clearers at 7:45, 10:15, i 130 and 
4:15 daily. 

6. Wipe roller beam at 1 1 :oo and 5 :oo 
P. M. daily. Pick spindle bottoms between 
5 :oo and 6:00 P. M. daily. 

7. Clean entire frame thoroughly each 
Saturday morning. 

8. Clean bobbin gears during first week 
of each month. One hank per frame is 
allowed for this work. 

9. Wipe creels before putting in roving. 
Keep bobbins and skewers in creels free 
from fly at all times. 

10. Sweep alleys immediately after 
picking clearers or after doffing. 



The 
WHITIN MACHINE WORKS 

Whitinsville, Mass, 

Builders of 

COTTON 
MA C MINER Y 

Cards, Railway Heads, 

Combing Machinery, 
Drawing Frames, 

Roving Machinery, 
Spinning Frames, Spoolers, 

Twisters, Reels, 
Long Chain Quillers, Looms 

STUART W, CRAMER 

Southern Agent Charlotte, N. C. 



CARD CLOTHING 




Words of commendation as rssult of practical 
tests by practical men. 

"This is to certify that we have on our cards 
at the present time, forty sets of clothing, made 
by the Howard Bros. Mfg. Co., Worcester, 
Mass. Twenty-seven of these sets have been 
on and running for about four years. The 
other thirteen sets have just been put on to 
some new cards that we have recently put in. 
The other twenty-seven sets put on four years 
ago have given entire satisfaction, and are ap- 
parently as good to-day, with the exception of 
what wear there would naturally be in that 
length of time, as they were when they were 
put in." 

Howard Bros.Mfg^-Co. 

MANUFACTURERS 
44 & 46 VINE ST. WORCESTER. MASS. 



ASHWORTH BROTHERS INC. 

Fall River, Mass. 

Manufacturers of 

CARD CLOTHING FOR COTTON CARDS 

TOP FLATS RECLOTHED and LICKERINS REWIRED 



FYANS, FRASER and BLACKWAY CO. 

Fall River, Mass. 

Flyers Altered and Repaired Sleel Rolls Repaired 

Machinists and Machinery Dealers 



LOWELL 

COMPLETE COTTON MILL 
EQUIPMENTS 



CARDS 


DRAWING 


SLUBBERS 


INTERMEDIATES 


FINE FRAMES 


JACK FRAMES 



SPINNING FRAMES TWISTERS 

SPOOLERS WARPERS SLASHERS 

WARPER BEAMS SIZE KETTLES . 
SIZE PUMPS SIZE SYSTEMS 

BALLERS DUCK BEAMERS 

PLAIN FANCY AND DUCK LOOMS 
CAMLESS WINDERS 

LOWELL MACHINE SHOP 

LOWELL, MASS. 




CLING=SURFACE AND SLACK BELTS. 

Cling-Surface is the only belt and 
rope treatment that is so actually pre- 
servative and that will so perfectly stop 
slipping that all belts can b^ run easy or 
slack and carry full loads. It will also 
keep belts water-proof and prevent static 
electricity. 

Slack belts mean lew friction, even 
speeds and more output. Guaranteed 
satisfactory. 

CIvING-SURFACE COMPANY 

Buffalo N Y 

B-s1on 170 Svimn^er St New York 39 Cortlandt St 



Manufacturers Should Look 
up the Advantages of the 

Metallic Drawing Roll 



OVER THE LEATHER SYSTEM 

Before placing orders for new machinery, 
or, if contemplating an increase in produc- 
tion, have them applied to their old ma- 
chinery. It is applied successfully to the 
following carding-room machinery. 

Colier Railways, Sliver Laps, Ribbon Laps, 

Comber Draw Boxes, Detaching Rolls for 

Combers, Drawing Frames, Slubbers, 

Intermediate Frames 

25 TO 33 PER CENT. MORE PRODUCTION 
GUARANTEED 

For Prices and Circulars Write to 

The Metallic Drawing Roll Co. 

INDIAN ORCHARD, MASS. 



Winiam Firth, Pres. Frank B. Coniins, V. Pres. & Treas. 

AMERICAN MOISTENING COMPANY 

Office: JOHN HANCOCK BUILDING 
120 FRANKLIN ST. - BOSTON, MASS. 

HUMIDIFIERS 

For Moistening the Air and Maintaining a Proper Con- 
dition in the Departments of the Textile Manufacture, 
Printing Offices, Tobacco Works, Leather Factories, 
and all places where Arjficial Moisture is desired. 



"KITSON" 

MANUFACTURERS OF COMPI^ETE 

PICKING AND WASTE RECLAIMING 
EQUIPMENTS 

BALE BREAKERS CONVEYING SYSTEMS 
CONDENSERS DISTRIBUTORS 

BREAKER LAPPERS INTERMEDIATES 

FINISHER LAPPERS THREAD EXTRACTORS 
ROVING WASTE OPENERS, HARD WASTE OPENERS 
IvITSON MACHINE SHOP 

LOWELL, MASS. 



COTTON MILL MACHINERY 
SPECIALISTS. 

Potter and Jolinson Maciiine Co., 

Picking Macliinery and Revolving Flat Cards. 

Woonsocket Macliine & Press Co., 

Drawing Frames and Roving Machinery. 

Fales and Jenks IMacliine Go., 

Spinning and Twisting Frames. 

Easton and Burnliam JVIacliine Co., 

Spooling and Winding Machinery. 

T. G. Entwistle Go., 

Warping, Beaming and Balling Machinery. 

SOUTHERN AGENT 

J. H. Mayes, Charlotte N. C. 



One filling of a Comb Box with 

TRADE MARK C"^N /ssTU REGISTERED IN 




MTnTomec 



is equal to five fillings with any other 
suitable Lubricant. Not one drop is 
wasted by spattering. Staining of 
product is avoided. Comb-boxes run 
cooler. Wear is reduced. 

Sample of proper grade free upon request 

NEW YORK & NEW JERSEY LUBRICANT CO. 
165 Broadway, New York 



AUG 19 1912 



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